Floors that survive your life.

Honest take on LVP

LVP has come a long way. Twenty years ago vinyl flooring was thin, plasticky, and obvious. Today’s premium LVP has wear layers up to 30 mil, embossed-in-register textures that feel like wood, and waterproof cores. In photos and even up close, it can be hard to tell from real hardwood.

Where it shines: kitchens, basements, mudrooms, kids’ bathrooms, anywhere water and traffic are concerns. Households with multiple dogs or young kids often pick LVP over hardwood and don’t regret it.

Where hardwood wins: long-term homes where you want the look-and-feel of real wood, formal living areas, dry rooms with stable conditions.

How LVP compares to hardwood

See the full comparison on the Hardwood page. Quick version: LVP is waterproof, more forgiving with kids and pets, and 15-40% less expensive. Hardwood is real wood, warmer underfoot, refinishable, and adds more resale value.

SPC vs WPC core

Stone-Plastic Composite (SPC) is the dominant DFW slab choice — rigid, dimensionally stable, handles temperature swings without expanding or contracting much. Best for living rooms, hallways, and most main-floor runs.

Wood-Plastic Composite (WPC) is softer underfoot, more comfortable for kitchens you stand in for hours, slightly less stable. Good for kitchens and rooms where comfort matters more than maximum stability.

Glue-down LVP works for very large open spans where seams matter or for commercial-style stability. Floating click-lock is standard for residential.

Wear layer — the spec that actually matters

Wear layer is what separates a $3/sf LVP from a $7/sf LVP. Everything else (look, color, texture) is mostly cosmetic by comparison.

• 6 mil: light residential — guest rooms, formal living
• 12 mil: standard residential — most homes, most rooms
• 20 mil: heavy residential / light commercial — kid-and-pet households, rentals, busy entryways

Ask us which one you actually need for your home. We won’t oversell you on commercial-grade wear layer if your bedrooms don’t need it.

Moisture testing on slab + acclimation

Before glue-down LVP on a slab, we test the slab’s moisture level — DFW summer humidity hides in concrete and can compromise the adhesive. We also acclimate the planks in your home for 48–72 hours per the manufacturer spec. Skipping either step is how floating LVP develops gaps along walls or glue-down LVP releases at the edges.

Heat and direct-sun caveat

South- and west-facing windows plus DFW sun can cause expansion or buckling on floating LVP installs without proper expansion gaps along walls. We measure for it — but you should also know that leaving sheer curtains down for months at a time on big west-facing windows isn’t a good idea even with the right install. Cover the floor when the home is empty for long stretches in summer.

What’s included in your install

• Baseboard pull and reinstall (not shoe-mold over the new floor) — keeps the line clean
• Door undercutting where the new floor’s height requires it
• Transitions to existing flooring — T-mold, reducer, threshold, stair-nose as needed
• HEPA-vacuum dust containment during demo
• Furniture moved by our crew — you don’t lift a finger
• Demo and disposal of the old flooring